|
Small Breed Rescue of Southern California |
|
Most all reptiles require a variation of the same basic components to be healthy; Appropriately Sized Enclosure, UVB Lighting, Timer, Overhead or Underneath Heating, Thermostatic Controller, Substrate, Hide, and a Water Source. It is important to size these components appropriately to each other as well.
A small 13 watt compact fluorescent UVB light may work well on a 20 gallon terrarium where it is 6 inches from the reptile but the same light would not work at all on a 40 gallon terrarium where it is 13 inches from the reptile as the UVB will not reach. Conversely, a large 18"x18" under tank heater may work great on 40 gallon terrarium on the hot side but would cover the entire bottom of a 20 gallon terrarium providing no room for a cold side at all.
When planning your enclosure, you should take into account not just the current size of your reptile but more importantly the adult size of your reptile or you may end up buying the entire setup twice or even more times as they grow in order to keep them healthy.
Below is a diagram covering the basic minimum components of your reptiles enclosure. We have provided links at the bottom of this page to help you locate and purchase these items often at a much lower price than what you might find at your local pet store.
Leopard Gecko:Enclosure - Optimally you are going to want a 30-40 gallon front opening terrarium. This allows you easy access to the animal without having to touch or move hot light housings. Most reptiles prefer to be approached from in front of rather than above as well.
Lighting - You are going to want strong UVB lighting but not necessarily strong UVA lighting. What that means is you need a light that can reach UVB all the way to the bottom of the terrarium but not necessarily one that is exceptionally bright. Many bright bulbs also emit UVC which can be harmful to the geckos eyes.
Themostat - Do not ever place an heating with your reptile without it being controlled by a thermostat or you risk baking or burning your pet.
Timer - Having a consistent light cycle actually benefits your reptiles health both by ensuring a consistent 12hr UVB period and a consistent 12hr rest period.
Substrate - These guys need a soft substrate. Paper towels are a safe choice. But if you must have substrate...
Hide- We are flexible when it comes to the hide as long as it is safe for the lizard and large enough for them to hide inside completely. Be careful when using fish decorations as hides as they may have sharp edges or passages the lizard can get up and into where they can get stuck.
Water Bowl- We are flexible when it comes to the water bowl as long as it is safe and large enough for your lizard to soak in but shallow enough they cant drown.
|
Bearded DragonEnclosure - Optimally you are going to want a 30-40 gallon front opening terrarium. This allows you easy access to the animal without having to touch or move hot light housings. Most reptiles prefer to be approached from in front of rather than above as well.
Lighting - You are going to want strong UVB lighting with strong UVA lighting.
Heating - Ceramic Heat Emitters are a great wat to provide day/night heat without the light that a basking bulb generates Optional Light/Heat Combo kit: Thrive UVB + Heat Desert Set Themostat - Do not ever place an heating with your reptile without it being controlled by a thermostat or you risk baking or burning your pet.
Timer - Having a consistent light cycle actually benefits your reptiles health both by ensuring a consistent 12hr UVB period and a consistent 12hr rest period.
Substrate -
Hide- We are flexible when it comes to the hide as long as it is safe for the lizard and large enough for them to hide inside completely. Be careful when using fish decorations as hides as they may have sharp edges or passages the lizard can get up and into where they can get stuck.
Water Bowl- We are flexible when it comes to the water bowl as long as it is safe and large enough for your beardy to soak in but shallow enough they cant drown.
|